ATV3 Research point 1

 

Voyage Decoration

 The first thing that stood out to me was how beautiful the fabric was, they looked like works of art themselves. Looking like watercolours that would be hung in a gallery.

I began my research into the company, Voyage Decoration now goes by the name Voyage Maison. Its name changed when it went into administration 2019. The fabric is still created in the same way although the name has changed.

Their fabric collections are made up of fabrics designed and printed in-house by our team of designers which are layered with the finest weaves, velvet's, silks and embroidery from around the world.

Their pieces are inspired by nature and the colours and textures that can be found within it. The company is based in Scotland the company often us the surround area of the Highlands for inspiration, not only using the landscape but the animals that inhabit the land.

They are one of the UK's top designer brands know for their watercolour designs that are digitally printed onto beautiful cotton and linen fabrics.

I love both the animal and patterned fabrics and Voyage create. The examples I have chosen to from their Midnight Reflections collection. What stood out to me where the colours and the delicately painted peacock. In charming pastel shades of blue, purple and green. Although it would be a bold print to use it has a delicateness to it with the watercolour effect.

Voyage created this piece by hand painting with intricate detailing before being digitally printed capturing this original artwork onto fabric.

Voyage describe this collection as:

'A romantic collection capturing the ethereal elegance of a midnight garden, painted in opulent tones of topaz, moonstone and sunset.  This heavenly moonlight Eden is inhabited by majestic peacocks and delicate songbirds, Midnight Reflections is a luxurious collection abundant with blooming flora and fauna. Digitally printed with a captivating timeless, luxurious spirit'


Ebba

Contrasting to the peacock fabric print, in the same collection is the Jasper fabric. Combining the pastel shades from the peacocks but in a more vibrant pattern. It somehow gives the allusion that the colours are brighter. And rather than calming like the peacock fabric it is erratic.



 Jasper

https://www.voyagemaison.com/


Marimekko

Marimekko is a Finnish design house, famous for its original prints and vibrant colours. Marimekko began in 1951, they describe themselves as:

‘Since the beginning, the Marimekko dress has been an emblem for women who walk their own path with confidence and style. Marimekko is Finnish for "Mari's dress"’

Marimekko began by making liberating dresses in abstract patterns in vibrant colours for women who wanted to express themselves through their clothing. Marimekko designers were known for their clothing design and its enchantment and provocation around the world.

Armi Ratia was the founder of Marimekko who infused Marimekko with a unique spirit embracing the everyday and the exceptional.

Marimekko has its own printing factory in Helsinki creating its vibrant bold prints that adorn clothing, bags, accessories, ceramics, bedding and fabric. Marimekko’s Striped, checked, and floral patterns comprise, its most iconic of the design is Maija Isola's Unikko (poppy) from 1964.

The first print that stood out to me was the Unikko print. It jumped out of the page at me, it bright bold colours, captured in a repeat pattern of poppies. The contrasting white centres to the poppies jumps out from the print. I was amazed when I realised this busy print was made up of 4 colours. The way the colours has been used gives the illusion there is more happening on the print. The colour palette includes a poppy red and then using a complimentary red tone as a base colour. And then finally  using a mustard colour to harmonise with the poppy print.



Unikko (poppy), symbolizing creativity


https://www.marimekko.com/gb_en/printed-fabrics/all-items?p=2

The next print that caught my attention was Marimekko’s print Siirtolapuutarha. This time there were more colours used, due to the colour palette used it does not feel as colourful. Using hues of green and blue with black outlines and whites’ sections make it less striking. The image depicted on the print is more interesting and detailed. Using flowers again but instead of a repetitive pattern of the poppies the Siirtolapuutarha print reminds me of a garden. The pattern is made up of black lines and circles which makes it look very busy.

I find the blue and green tones compliment each other but the style of the print takes away from the colour qualities. As the black lines take away from the colours and appear to be laid on top of the colour.

Out of the two my preference is as an image is Siirtolapuutarha as I find it visually interesting but as a print to use in fashion or furnishing, I feel as though the Unikko print would be more effective with the repetitive vivid print creating an eye catching statement piece.


Mary Katrantzou

 Mary Katrantzou, the Greek-born, London-based designer, who came onto the scene in 2008 with prints that were, as Vogue put it, “almost beyond imaginable limits.”

In her Mary’s designs she uses clashing aesthetics, mixing technology and craftmanship and magnificent innovative embellishments. Mary Katrantzou is designs are all about feminine, innovative, fresh and elegant.

Mary Katrantzou spring/summer 2017 collection really stood out to me. She used the country of her birth for inspiration. Looking at the history, culture, and mythology. The ancient civilisation of Minoans for her initial inspiration. The Minoan civilization was a Bronze Age Aegean civilization on the island of Crete and other Aegean Islands, flourishing from c. 3000 BC to c. 1450 BC.

Mary Katrantzou was drawn to them due to their artifacts and culture being heavily dominated by females. This influenced the feminine body, creating hourglass figure dressed, slender trouser legs with tunics and peplums to show the curvaceous line of a woman.

Anyway, enough about the style I am here to research the colour palette that was used. Mary Katrantzou uses traditional ancient Greek colours for the centre piece depicting an ancient Greek scene using terracotta and black. And again, a very traditional but contrasting emblem beneath that with another blue Greek symbol, which I believe to be a Greek god. That was the last part of the traditional for colour, the designer then uses a very busy square pattern using black and white as a base square and then accompanied by either a red, green or blue square. The way the coloured squared are place give feel like an optical illusion, but the pattern also helps to emphasize the feminine silhouette which is what the designer was hoping to achieve.

https://www.marykatrantzou.com/collections/spring-summer-2017/

Although it is a busy design with a number of colours in a very varied colour palette, I feel black and white help to balance the of colours causing barrier. I have also observed that not only was the black and white a continuous colour through out the pattern the green was as well. The colour palette is vibrant and playful and the blue reminds me of the sea and the red and green remind me of the streets of Crete as picture below. 


https://www.greeka.com/crete/architecture/

https://www.marykatrantzou.com/collections/spring-summer-2017

Another piece from the collection using a style pattern using Greek history for inspiration, using the traditional orange and black on the skirt. At a distance you can visually associate the colours to ancient Greece. With the colours and traditional print moving up to the top through the peplum, to what I can only describe as a psychedelic pattern with disc embellishments none that seem to be in keeping with bottom half of the piece. I don't feel the yellow clashes with the terracotta and feels like it should be on a completely different colour palette. I like the idea behind Mary Katrantzou designs but I feel as though the colours and mix of traditional and modern prints is to much and I do not find them appealing.

Wallace Sewell

Wallace Sewell is a UK based British design studio, it was established by Harriet Wallace-Jones and Emma Sewell after graduating they from the Royal College of Art. They a renowned for their scarves, supplying over 400 stockists in 25 countries.

Their pieces are more practical, using colour, structure and yarn and geometric formats. They create individual modern fabrics with bold, blocks and stripes of varying scales. They use traditional techniques their initial design process begins on handlooms. They then mix tradition with state technology, allowing them to weave a variety of qualities from small to larger quantities.

This has been the first designer I could actually see myself purchasing. The first item I came across was a Wallace Sewell’s blanket, the colour lined instantly reminded me of a London underground tube map. Once I clicked into the image, I discovered I was correct as the blanket had been commissioned for the London transport museum. Its funny how certain colours in a different form can still be identified and linked to what they actually are. I loved the bold coloured lines woven across a grey backing making the lines the centre of the piece showing they are the key part of the pattern. I also love the way they cross over representing the underground lines weaving though the different line and interlinking. 



                         https://www.wallacesewell.com/project/london-transport-museum

Another iconic print that caught my attention was TFL print, living near London and having sat on it many a time I had never paid much attention, let alone known who had designed it. It was interesting to actually have a chance to study the fabric and print. The woven fabric is made up of 4 simple colours, the companies iconic red, dark and light blue, with snippets of beige. The colours cleverly make up iconic London landmarks such as the London Eye, St Paul’s Cathedral, Big Ben and Tower Bridge. Again Wallace Sewell has used iconic colours to relate to the subject.



https://www.wallacesewell.com/project/transport-for-london--underground-moquette

I love the fact that truly British designers that use traditional techniques have been used to produce iconic British fabrics. And I haver related to them as they are right on my doorstep.

Cole and Son

Cole and Son began in 1875 by John Perry and began in a wallpaper in Islington, they began with just 8 wooden printing blocks to now to now having approximately 1,800 print blocks in their archive and 350 screen print designs. Presenting designs from the 18th, 19th century. Their current collection covers a vast variety of prints from the traditional patterns, to the elegant floral designs and then their big print flamboyant modern designs.

My first impression of this Cole and Son print was that it reminded me of a 1920's print, it wasn't until l looked closer at the print that I saw it had been made up of a number of dots varying in sizes creating a fan effect. When looking at the description of the fabric it is described as The soft geometric pattern of the Asian-inspired Feather Fan gives a unique dimension to upholstery and decorative pieces alike.

I had not instinctively thought Asian at first it was not until, I looked deeper into to piece and saw the delicate dots used to create the print. What I also like about the print is that there 5 different colour combinations . Using complementing colours to showing richness in the colour combinations. What I found interesting with this designer is how they use one print but then alter the look by simply changing the colour. This could work well when producing a screen print.



https://www.janeclayton.co.uk/cole-son-feather-fan-fabric-soot-snow-f111-8031/

The next piece by Cole and Son that I was drawn to was from their  Historic Royal Palaces- Great Masters collection. The beautiful elegant print looks like a magnificent country garden. I love the choice of spring colours, using a black background to emphasis the colour. 


https://www.cole-and-son.com/en/products/court-embroidery?v=3994


Ptolemy Mann

Ptolemy Mann is one artist I felt truly inspired by her work was stunning and experimental. I wanted to find out more about her. Ptolemy Mann has been creating work from her studio since 1997, creating architectural wall-based artworks for private, public and corporate clients using hand dyed and woven technique.

In 2014 Ptolemy established her own retail rug collection in collaboration with Rugmaker. And in 2005 Ptolemy launched an architectural colour consulting service. Ptolemy has a unique approach to hand dyeing and weaving brings her work into the 21st century. Colour theory underpins all of her work.

The first piece I came across that I was drawn to was her piece for Tate Modern, it looks like a painting made with delicate brush strokes. I find it fascinating that it is made with hand dyed threads weaved, I am intrigued to sea how the ombre effect is created . Is it with weaving or is it how Ptolemy has dyed the yarn?

I find the choice of colour relaxing and the ombre effect add to the soothing feeling. Each of the pieces creating a different emotion. The red, purple and yellow hues remind me of a warm summers evening with the sun setting. The green hues remind me of a walk in a peaceful woodland and the blue reminds me of water, I can imagine the sound of the waves. I would definitely like to look into how colours make you feel and how particular colours can invoke certain feelings and emotions.

http://www.ptolemymann.com/tate-modern-commission.html





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